How do I replace the water pump in a 1992 ford escort?
Sunday, September 27th, 2009I have a slight idea but I would like to see what steps other people have taken. I have a 1992 ford escort that needs a new water pump, what steps have you taken to replace it?
In order to replace the water pump in a 1992 Ford Escort, you will need to start by being mechanically inclined, a fairly complete set of metric tools (wrenches/sockets/etc.) – and preferably with a haynes or clymer manual for the vehicle (available at most auto parts stores).
Start by disconnecting and removing the battery. Then (this is from memory) take any other plastic junk off of it that is in the way, put a breaker bar on the spring-loaded accessory belt tensioner, remove the belt, then start taking accessories off (power steering pump, alternator, A/C compressor). You don’t necessarily have to remove everything – but it makes it much easier to do, and the few minutes you take putting it back together is worth the extra time.
I generally don’t disconnect the A/C – just unbolt it and use some big zip strips to hang it out of the way.
Once you have everything out of your way, the next step is removing the timing belt cover. This is actually a much bigger pain in the a** than it sounds like because for some stupid reason, Ford decided to slide the cover over bolts that stick out too far to allow it to be removed without taking the motor mounts off and jacking the engine up.
The easy workaround is to simply (carefully) break the cover so that you can remove it. I generally just break the bottom part off so it will come out, but I can still put it back over the top when I reassemble (technically it doesn’t need to be there at all – at least half the ricers I know have over-sized cam gears that force them to leave it off anyway). It is nice to have it on there to keep crap out of your timing belt, but I mainly just like to have the top covered to keep my fingers out of the moving parts while I am working on other stuff.
Okay – once you have that out of the way, then it is a simple matter of MAKING SURE THE ENGINE IS AT TDC!!!!
I scream this, because it is incredibly important that before you start messing with the timing belt, that you either turn the engine by hand (spark plugs out makes this easier), or hook the battery back up and carefully bump it around until the mark on the crankshaft gear is pointed at the mark.
I usually use some fingernail polish or something to carefully mark the crank and cam positions in case something moves while the belt is off. If you aren’t careful, you can mess up the engine timing (even one tooth off will do it). It isn’t that hard to get back on a single-cam, but doing it right the first time can save hours of screwing around (on a dual-cam – you have to be VERY careful, but fortunately the escort won’t have this).
Now – with the cam and crank at TDC and well marked, loosen the timing belt tensioner, to where it can move. Carefully use a prybar or something to release tension on the belt, tighten the bolt on the tensioner back down, and remove the belt..
Now – you can get at the water pump. Disconnect and remove it, install the new one (key word: new – you don’t want to mess with used parts when they are this much work to install) then install the new timing belt (always do both water pump and timing belt at the same time so you don’t have to tear it apart twice).
The timing belt should have a TDC mark on it as well – make sure everything is perfectly lined up, and release the tensioner.
It will mess up the timing – so cuss for a minute, and then start playing with it to see where you need to have the gears set when you release it to get them to both point at TDC when the belt is tensioned (again, one tooth off will prevent the engine from running correctly – this is the one part of the job that you do not want to half-azz)..
Finally, reassemble – say a little prayer to the deity of your choice, and fire it up!